1 . Five Good Points - A B C D E :

A.Good Art: Good art is like a beauty whom you fall in love with at first sight. A good watch needs to be pretty, and people never get tired of looking at it.
B. Good Brand: The brand of a renowned watch doesn't only sell its reputation, but also sells quality and after-sales service. When you wear it, it will combine your personality with its brand culture.
C. Good Calibre:The calibre of a watch is like a human heart, which needs to function smoothly, regularly, and consistently.
D. Good Dial: The dial is the main appearance of a watch. People can guess the owner's condition from looking at the facade of a house. If a watch is of good calibre, it's more likely that the rest of the watch is in good condition as well.
E. Good Effect: A good watch can certainly catch people's attention, and make people notice you immediately, and understand you. This is important. For example, doctors usually use a stopwatch to check our pulse, while people who wear world time watches are mostly engaged in international trade, and people who wear diving watches love sports and freedom.

2. Maintenance secrets:

A sports watch is not entirely meant to be worn during all kinds of exercise. Please try not to wear it when you are taking a shower or swimming as too many shocks can be damaging for a mechanical watch. Never wear it when you are taking a hot spring bath! If you really want to wear it when you are diving, you can choose a diving watch, which is designed specifically for diving.

Also, a renowned anti-magnetic and shock resistant watch is more suitable for you to wear when you are playing ball games. As for other types of sport watches, they are recommended for wearing in general situations. It is recommended to disable the stopwatch function of a racing watch which features a stopwatch function unless you need to measure the time. A stopwatch needs 300 parts to work simultaneously and consumes much of the watch mechanism while it only needs about 100 parts to work when a watch is running normally without the stopwatch function enabled. It is better to replace the battery in a quartz watch regularly. In general, the quartz watch battery needs to be replaced every one to two years. If you find your watch runs faster or slower, or stops every two seconds, it is probably time to replace the battery. Many people don't replace the battery or take the old one out when their watches are out of battery. After the electrolyte is released, the bottom plate, and some parts will become eroded, which causes people to spend more money on repairs. It's a real shame.

(2) About storage:

For an automatic winding mechanical watch, do I need to fit an automatic winding barrel while I am not wearing it? No. We recommend you place it in a dry and safe place when you are not wearing it. You don't need an automatic winding barrel, which wears away the mechanism more easily. You only need to hand wind the watch before wearing it and turn the crown about 10 resolutions. The power will be sufficient for the watch to run throughout the day.
An automatic winding barrel is mainly for a watch that has an annual calendar or a perpetual calendar. Since the month, week, and other functions of this kind of watch may have inaccuracies if the watch hasn't been used for a long time, an automatic winding barrel is needed. In general, please store a watch in a dry and safe place. Never put it near a fridge, TV, washing machine, PC etc. If you put it in a safe, please also put in a pre-packaged desiccant. Also, don't place it in strong light or under a spotlight for too long otherwise the dial will be easily oxygenised or be broken.

(3) About maintenance:

Mechanical watches need to be oiled every two to three years. Generally, a high-class mechanical watch will have a daily rate within -15 to +15 seconds, and an antique mechanical watch normally has a daily rate within 2 minutes. A quartz watch is recommended to have its battery replaced regularly every year, and be maintained every 5 years. It normally has an annual rate within 30 seconds. Please pay special attention to prevent water from getting in quartz watches.

Whether it is a quartz watch or a mechanical watch, water must not get into it. Please don't wear it on a rainy day. For Rolex and some brands of watches which have a screw-down crown design, their crowns need to be fully screwed after the time has been adjusted. When you are taking a shower, please don't put your watch in the bathroom in case steam gets into the dial. If there is steam in your watch, please contact a professional maintenance technician to check and fix the problem.

3. Terminology of renowned watches:

(1) Material:

a. Stainless steel: Renowned watch factories use 904 steel and 312 steel. Many of them have developed their own special steel, which can make products and quality as beautiful and durable as karat gold.
b. 18K yellow gold
c. 18K white gold
d. 18K rose gold

(2) Functions:

a. GMT: Greenwich Mean Time It refers to the mean time at the Royal Observatory in Greenwich in the rural area of London, UK where the prime meridian is defined as the longitude which passes through it. Noon Greenwich Mean Time means the moment when the midday sun crosses the Greenwich meridian.
In terms of function, if a watch has GMT, it can display time in two different time zones, which is very suitable for executives who need to travel frequently or live in a foreign country. For example, when you go traveling in North America, you can set one time zone for Eastern time and the other for China home time.
b. Water resistance: Usually, a small fish is marked to indicate 30m water resistance, which means the watch is protected against everyday mist, steam, or occasional vapor. However, it is not suitable for washing hands or taking a shower. If it gets wet on a rainy day, make sure you wipe it dry as soon as possible.
c. Diving watches: Especially referring to watches suitable for swimming or diving. They are usually marked with 300 m or 150 m. ISO standards regulate that a diving watch must have a minimum of 100m of water resistance. Nowadays, mechanical watches that have the deepest depth of water resistance are Rolex Deepsea watches, with a diving depth of 3900m.
d. 24-hour display: It is particularly designed for executives who travel back and forth across continents by plane. Whether you are on a plane or in the pole, you can figure out if it is daytime or night.
e. 12-hour counter: It can measure elapsed time up to 12 hours. This style of watch is called a triple sub-dial counter. It measures elapsed time and displays its hours, minutes, and seconds up to 12 hours.
f. 30-minute counter: It measures elapsed time up to 30 minutes.
g. Double split: A pair of second counter hands which can measure two periods of time.
h. Power reserve: It shows the amount of remaining stored power for a watch to run, serving as a reference for when to wind the watch.
i. Retrograde: The hands travel along an arc and when they get to the end, they jump back to the beginning. The most famous one is the Gerald Genta Disney watch, which is the most expensive cartoon watch.
j. Big display window: A dual window with date display. Unlike a single window, this one is more stereoscopic.
k. 8-day or 10-day power reserve: It is a highly efficient power reserve. Once the spring has been screwed in, the power can last for 8 to 10 days. A common power reserve stores power for 35 to 42 hours of usage.
l. Moonphase, moonage: Usually, the moon phase, such as first quarter, last quarter, full moon etc. is displayed by a small dial within a small hemicycle window. One cycle is 29.5 days. A stereoscopic and accurate mechanical watch is rare and worth keeping.
m. Anti-magnetic: An anti-magnetic watch is highly resistant to magnetism and radiation, which is especially suitable for pilots, doctors, engineers, or people who need to work near large mechanical equipment or computers because the external magnetism cannot interfere with the accuracy of the watches. For example, Rolex Migulas or IWC Engineer watches fall in this category.
n. Small seconds hand: A small sub-dial for indicating seconds. It is used by doctors who need to take a patient's pulse.
o. Date window: It displays the date with the number from 1 to 31. Usually it is a big sub-dial in the bottom of the watch dial. However, the date needs to be adjusted manually to the 1st on the 30th of a 30-day month and 27th of February.
p. World time zone: It is marked with primary cities in 24 world time zones. For example, GMT0 is London and GMT+8 is Beijing.
q. Perpetual calendar: A standard perpetual calendar can display the year, both common year and leap year, hour, minute, second, week, date and month. It can automatically adjust the display of the 31-day month, 30-day month, common year, and leap year.
r. Annual calendar: Like a perpetual calendar, a so-called annual calendar can display the month, week, date etc. It can automatically distinguish whether it is a 30-day month or 31-day month, but it needs to be manually adjusted on the last day of February each year. In addition, it cannot display the year, and it needs to be adjusted every month in a leap year.
s. Tourbillon: It refers to the function where the escapement rotates around the seconds hand to the reduce daily rate of a mechanical watch. It doesn't mean a watch with Tourbillon has especially less daily rate. A Tourbillon has become a decorative mechanism. Many high-class watch factories also use their ability in making a beautiful Tourbillon as a selling point in their brand advertisements, such as Breguet Reveil Musical Tourbillon and the Jaeger-LeCoultre 3D Tourbillon.
t. Minute repeater: A hammer inside a watch or a clock movement strikes at the 'hours count', 'minutes count' and 'seconds count' when the repeater button on the watch is pressed.
u. Tachymeter: speed
v. Telemeter: distance
w. Dust-proof: To prevent the caliber and dial from dust damage.
x. Elapsed time rotating bezel: A rotatable bezel, with stereoscopic graduations of 5, 10, 15 etc. When the zero on the bezel is aligned with the watch's hour hand, time from two locations can be seen. When the zero on the bezel is aligned with the watch's minutes hand, it refers to the elapsed time when people are diving. For safety reasons, the elapsed time rotating bezel of a diving watch is tighter, and can only be rotated anti-clockwise to avoid inaccuracy while diving.
y. DateJust: It refers to the function when the crown is pulled out to adjust the time, and the seconds hand will stop. The most renowned is the Rolex automatic watches.

(3) Specification:

1. Diameter: Refers to the distance measured by cm between the 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock positions on the case, excluding the crown. A watch with an extra large diameter generally means its length is more than 40cm.
2. Bracelet: A.Metal: A metal bracelet is mainly made of stainless steel or karat gold. The bracelet of a modern watch is composed of links and there are screws in the links near the watch buckle to allow the wearer to easily adjust the length. B.Leather: The width of a leather bracelet refers to the width measured when the leather bracelet is attached in-between the lugs and the width of the watch buckle. In other words, it is the width between two ends of the leather bracelet measured by mm and has S, M and L standard sizes. 3. Sapphire crystal glass: It refers to the dial glass with a hardness of 9 on the Mohs Hardness Scale. The hardness of sapphire crystal glass is similar to that of a sapphire. It is scratch-resistant and clear, and is a commonly used glass material in high-class watches nowadays.
4. Acrylic: It is plastic glass with low hardness and cost, but high water resistance. If there are common scratches on it, they can be removed by polishing. It is a very useful material.
5. The thickness of a watch case: It refers to the thickness measured from the dial to the back of the case on the side of a watch, measured by mm.
6. Dial: A dial with graduations of 12 hours displays the time. The graduations are generally done by copper plate baked with enamel coating and are mainly Arabic or Roman numerals. Some high-class dials are made using polished diamond or small diamonds, which are highly valued.
7. Crown: It refers to the part on the side of a watch which is used to wind or adjust the time, and is also called a winding stem. A waterproof watch needs to be screwed after being adjusted for enhancing water resistance. Most of the crowns are at the 3 o'clock position but some are at 9, which is nicknamed a left-hand watch, for left-handed people or pilots. Moreover, some crowns have a function to enable a stopwatch, called the monopusher chronograph.
8. Geneva Seal: It is a Swiss watch certification, which has the most stringent and critical polish and workmanship standards. There are 12 criteria and most are about the details on polish and workmanship. Right now, there are few brands which have the Geneva Seal.
9. COSC (Controle Officiel Suisse des Chronometres): Only 3% of Swiss watches can issue the certification. The tests include: average daily rate, mean variation in rates, greatest variation in rates, difference between rates in H & V positions, largest variation in rates, thermal variation, and rate resumption. It uses the high standards in aviation and military timepieces to test watches and each test lasts for 16 days. Rolex and Omega are awarded the most COSC certifications.
10. Origin: Most high-class watches are produced in Geneva, Switzerland. Those watches have a tiny 'SWISS MADE' mark at the 6 o'clock position. Glashutte in Germany and Japan also produce a small amount of high-class watches.
11. Daily rate: Modern high-class mechanical watches have a daily rate of about 15 seconds, and have a monthly rate within 5 minutes. If the inaccuracy is too high, the watch needs to be examined by a professional technician. A quartz watch has a daily rate at 2/1000, hence it is less likely to make a mechanical watch with the extremely slight daily rate like a quartz watch.

(4) Calibre: General:

1. The mechanism of a mechanical watch: A mechanical watch transforms kinetics manually (via a handwinder) or automatically (via the rotor's power reserve) to potential energy by an entirely physical phenomena. The spring then passes the escapement and strikes to steadily display the time with hands (kinetics is transformed into potential energy again) and turns the watch into a delicate timepiece.
2. The mechanism of a quartz watch: A quartz watch replaces the strikes in mechanical watches with a quartz. The many vibrations from quartz crystals, the time can be more precise. The frequency of silica reaches tens of thousands of times per minute, which is much higher than normal mechanical watches (with above 20,000 times per hour). That is why a quartz watch is more precise than a mechanical watch. However, the vibration from quartz crystals will be degraded several years later, so the silica or the whole calibre needs to be replaced. Nowadays, renowned watch factories have improved their quartz watches in every edition. Therefore, there is no need to worry that there is no suitable quartz calibre for old renowned watches.
3. Types of calibre:
(1). Automatic winding: There is a semi-circular automatic dial inside a watch. When the watch is worn, the automatic dial will revolve downwards due to gravity. In this way, the potential energy will be transformed into kinetic energy and is stored in the spring. Most watches with automatic winding mechanism can also be winded manually.
(2). Handwinder: Manually winds the crown, which screws the spring to generate power. A handwinder is the original winding mechanism in watches, and is the best communicative tool for people. <
(3). Quartz: A quartz watch uses quartz, i.e. silica to stabilise the watch's operation. Most of the time, the time of a quartz watch is stable and precise. Its power comes from the battery, which needs to be changed every one to two years. (4). Radio wave watch:
It receives radio waves from a computer hooked up to an atomic clock once a day to automatically correct the current time. If a watch can receive the radio wave, it can make sure its time is accurate.

(5). Kinetic

4. Caliber parts:
(1). Rotor : The main part of an automatic winding watch. When the watch is worn, the Kinetic energy is transformed and stored in the form of potential energy. It is mainly composed of two semi-circular rotors with a steel ball for facilitating rotation in the middle. Rotors slide by gravity from the movement of the body. Then the potential energy transforms to kinetics and travels to the barrel. It can replace the handwinder, and is an eco-friendly and efficient mechanism, which can be called a milestone in mechanical watches.
(2). Barrel: An energy treasure box storing power. It is typically a spiral spring like a flat and round box. Some high-class watches contain two barrels to increase the capacity of stored power.
(3). Escapement: Some people say the escapement is the heart of a mechanical watch. It provides the main transmission of a watch to make it run smoothly and steadily. It mainly contains an escape wheel, balance wheel, hairspring, and a shock absorber. Many experts believe watching the escapement is like being in another world.
(4). Ruby: The ruby inside a caliber is for preventing wheel axle oil from becoming dry to stop wearing away the wheel axle. The ruby is an industrial ruby especially for caliber production. Basically, there are 15 in a watch, and sometimes more than 50. However, many rubies don't represent the value of a watch, but rather a kind of installation art.
(5). Balance wheel: It is a hollow plate with an axle and numerous hairsprings. It looks simple but its workings overwhelms many technical experts. Hairsprings in different materials have different functions. Small screws on the balance wheel pointing to various directions can affect accuracy according to different temperatures. There are extremely exquisite theories and mysteries involved. Current mechanical watches have two types of balance wheels: 19800 and 28800 per hour. The amount is not great for watches with high amplitude of balance wheel, such as ZENITH,. The higher amplitude of the balance wheel of a watch, the higher the accuracy the watch has. Since ancient times, an emperor  had the privilege of having accurate time. As a result, we can say 'being punctual is a king's privilege' rather than 'being punctual is a king's etiquette.